Start your journey with the idea of the end and to reach that end you have to improve. To improve you have to ask yourself the question, “Do you want to be a better surfer?”
Here’s a little reminder from an exceptional professional surfer himself. This is what Kelly Slater said when asked about how to become a better surfer, “Your surfing can get better on every turn, on every wave you catch. Learn to read the ocean better.”
If you’re looking for great surfing advice why not get it from someone who has proven himself in the industry. So if Kelly Slater said it, it must be true. You need to watch the waves!
There is so much to be said about keeping yourself safe in the water and paying attention to what’s going on around you. But before you even go into the water, take the time to study the ocean. After a few minutes, you will start to see the patterns and the stories that the ocean has to tell you.
Those patterns and stories are how many waves are in a set, where did the waves start and finish, where did people take the waves from, where are the currents, where are the beginner surfers, where are the advanced surfers, where are people paddling out, are they having difficulties, is there a channel?
One of the greatest things that you can do for yourselves as a learner surfer is studying the ocean, studying the waves, studying the surface in the water because that’s going to tell you a lot of information. One of the things to look for is where are the people entering the water, where the people start paddling from, where are they coming out of the water.
You have to know where people are paddling from, where they are coming out of the water. Because it might not necessarily be the same place.
This way you can easily traverse the ocean and the waves when you try to enter the water yourself. When you go down to the beach and you’re going surfing and you are a learner surfer you don’t need to stay in the water the whole time.
Come out of the water for five minutes and look at surfers in the water, go back in the water, practice, take one or two waves, come back and sit on the beach. No rule states you need to stay in the water for you to learn to surf. There is so much to learn from other surfers in the water. Doing is learning. But observing is just as powerful.
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